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Installing a GSXR front end
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Installing Buell turn signals - Rear
Installing Buell turn signals - Front
Flush mount rear (stock) turn signals
Installing a 2001 Ducati Monster fairing
Fix a broken oil filter cap bolt
General battery info
A Wal-Mart sealed battery?
Chain Maintenance
Installing SV650 Chainguard
Spark plug information
Installing a GSXR front end
Installing a GSXR swingarm
Installing GSXR rear passenger peg brackets
Installing an OEM Bandit 400 rear hugger
Installing a Bandit 400 rear wheel
Installing a GSXR rear wheel-simple swap
Polishing your wheels
"The Mystical Art of Tire Reading" and other tire info
General tire info for the GS #1
General tire info for the GS #2
General tire info for the GS #3 - mixing brands/types
gsJack's opinion on tires for the GS
Gearing and sprockets
Slip-on mufflers
Slip-on exhaust : using stock SV650 muffler
Installing an R6 tail
Installing GSX-R600 stock rearsets
Installing CBR600 stock rearsets
Replacing stock front pegs with CBR pegs
Replacing stock front pegs with Katana pegs
Why re-jet a stock US bike
More on re-jetting your carbs
Jetting for 2001 models
Links

With a bit of machining a GSXR front end can be installed.

gs500_with_gsxr_front_end.jpg
'97 gsxr front end on Kevin Caldwell's race GS

 

This is written in the first person and work done by Bob Broussard. I have not done this mod.

This is for mounting a 2001 gsxr750 front end on a GS500. Doing this is really overkill for the street in my opinion so if you're going racing and /or you've smashed your forks and need them replaced anyway here's what to do.


A) Take the steering stem from both bikes and have them pressed out. Press them out the bottom of the triple clamp! I broke my press trying to go the wrong way. They have collars so they won't pull up out of the lower clamp.

B) The GS stem is just a hair smaller than the hole in the gsxr lower. I took some aluminum tape I had and put one layer on the bottom part that fits into the lower. Then I was able to hammer it into the lower. The tape is aluminum with glue on one side. It's used for heater ducts. You could use some shim stock if you can get in .001 thicknesses.  The tape is extremely easy to use.

C) Put the bearings on and put the lower on the frame. Thread on the collar.

D) Now is the part where you have to make a spacer. If you have a lathe, that would be perfect. I have a mini milling machine and rotary table.  The spacer fits into the hole on the top clamp. It is wider on top to sit on top of the upper clamp. Then it is the same size as the hole in the upper to fit down into the hole. The part that fits into the hole should be the same length as the hole itself. The part that sits on top could be 1/8-1/4 in. thick.  The bottom of the spacer should be milled out to fit on the tip of the gs500 steering shaft. Then drill a hole for the bolt to go through into the steering shaft.  It is actually very simple.

I had a 97-gsxr front-end before and it needed a larger spacer on the bottom to make up the difference between the gs shaft and the larger hole on the lower.  The bearings from the gs fit the 2001 shaft but the length is too long.  Don't waste your time trying to make the gsxr shaft work. Just use the GS shaft  and make spacers.

Weight difference between the 97 and 01 front-end is about 2 lbs. That's including wheel brake rotors and everything. Ive heard the gsxr1000 front-end is a little lighter than the 750.
 
What you end up with is a fork set that is probably 6 times as stiff, so all that flexing under braking and cornering on the race track is virtually eliminated. You also get a wider front wheel to run the common sizes of radial race rubber. You also get rebound and compression damping adjustments to make the bike behave on different tracks and of course bigger, dual disks, with 6 piston calipers for better braking. Dual calipers/rotors are also probably overkill on the street (looks way cool though) but on the track you'll need both since one alone will overheat at extremes.

 

A word about pressing the steering stem:

I press them out cold, from top to bottom only. Heat won't help, because both members expand at same rate. and aluminum galls easily at higher temps. There is no locking agent. However, things worth noting: 1) you can probably find a lathe that will swing the clamp, and you can then do it between centers with a driver on the clamp itself to make it all go around, 2) your top race should actually be a light press fit, about .0001" tight, 3) the stem is anodized and you will turn that off, reducing hardness quite a bit, 4) a steel stem is going to be about thrice as stiff for the same wall thickness if you care to make one, and stiffness is at a premium in stems. If you do make a stem your fit steel-to-aluminum should be about >.003" tight; only fools do presswork like this w/o an anti-seize compound on both sides, and for this case some heat on clamp eases the effort. If you want help, I do these swaps at rate of about 6-8 per year and will be happy to assist. And finally, I hope people onlist here who have no experience in the matter will have the grace to not expose that through gripes or personal comments. Bob Broussard can be contacted through one of his posts on GSTwin.com.


By the way:  88-90 forks are not upside-down (USD), they will bolt on but you have to figure out how to hang the headlight and dash and probably the worst of all they are heavy. Just mercilessly thick wall pipe and monstrous lower section. Why is that important? If you crash you will break/bend the frame. I know of GSXR riders who have broken frames off the GSXR's on the track. An upside down unit however stiff is lighter because of the abundant aluminum, and is brittle for the same reason. So with an USD you are likely to save the frame in a crash. But then again the frame of a GS is probably cheaper than a GSXR USD suspension.

Special thanks to Bob Broussard from GSTwin.com for providing this.